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The Famous Jubilee, Special Edition Reserve

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famousjubilee.jpgThe Famous Jubilee was globally released last May to coincide with the commemoration of Her Majesty The Queen's Diamond Jubilee. Bottled at 40% A.B.V, this limited edition expression is the creation of The Famous Grouse master blender Gordon Motion and contains a blended selection of aged single malt (including The Macallan and Highland Park) and sweet grain whiskies to celebrate the Queen's 60 years on the throne. 

Canada was one of only a handful of export markets for this special edition blend and about 200 cases found their way to the LCBO. It must have been a long, tedious, voyage for this shipment. The neatly packaged bottles only appeared on the shelves earlier this year in January, 8 months after release and 6 months after the mighty flotilla cruised the Thames. While others in the Commonwealth toasted to Her Majesty's health with a special dram, we didn't know what we were missing.

Until now.

Here's your leg up on one of the best, limited run, values for blended scotch whisky in the LCBO.


South Island Single Malt 18 Year Old

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NZSI18.jpgOriginally born as Lammerlaw single malt whisky at the Willowbank Distillery in Dunedin on New Zealand's South Island, the whisky in this bottle has survived many tumultuous and uncertain years prior to reaching Ontario's shelves. 

Once part of the now defunct Seagrams empire, the distillery was mothballed in 2000 when then-owners Fosters shipped the stills to Fiji to make rum. Meanwhile, the remaining cask stocks were bought by The New Zealand Malt Whisky Company which itself crumbled in 2010, only to be revived by a group of international investors later that year. All told, 600 casks from Willowbank were procured, the majority of them Lammerlaw malt, and now we and the rest of the world are finally seeing the release of their contents.

This particular whisky was distilled in 1993, bottled in 2011, and like its provenance, is simultaneously intriguing, enigmatic, strangely familiar, and thoroughly enjoyable.

On the Rocks: Whiskey Stones vs. Ice Cubes

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ABSTRACT
Among all organoleptic pursuits there are gadgets, devices, dishes, and glassware designed to heighten, enhance or deliver the substance in question to the human sense organs. Over time, some of these inventions take root and become the preferred means by which the item is to be be consumed and enjoyed while others are seen as fads relegated to the dustbin of history. For the world of whiskey lovers, Teroforma has declared a solution to the problem of how best to chill whiskey. Assuming that you would want to do such a thing, we decided to investigate. 

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The Whiskey Stone manufacturer claims that their stones, made in Vermont from natural non-porous soapstone, are more gentle than ice and can be used to cool down your favorite spirits just enough to take the edge off without "closing down" the flavors. Simply store the stones in the freezer for at least 4 hours before use, then add 3 stones to a glass with 2oz of whiskey and let stand 5 minutes. Moreover, the stones will not inadvertently scratch glassware and they are "particularly effective at retaining cold for extended periods of time."

While the claims that the stones impart no flavour, are non-porous, non-reactive, and won't inadvertently scratch glassware are sound, the claim that they are effective at retaining cold for extended periods did not reflect our collective experience with the stones. To resolve the matter, we set out to determine the cooling rates of ice, the traditional chilling method for whiskey, and Whiskey Stones so as to better understand the degree to which both chill a standard 2oz pour of whiskey and how long the dram stayed chilled. Running a series of measurements, ice was found to cool a dram faster and for a longer period than Whiskey Stones.

Having established the rates of cooling, we opened our discussion about the impact of Whiskey Stones on the enjoyment of a dram to our readership by means of a survey to shed light on the following: do readers chill their whiskey? How and under what circumstances do they chill whiskey and when might someone wish to use Whiskey Stones over ice? Finally, how many readers actually use them and think they're a necessary substitute to ice?

The essay below combines the empirical chilling data, analysis of the survey results and elucidation of ScotchBlog.ca's internal consensus to determine that Whiskey Stones provide little to no utility for the whiskey enthusiast. 
It is a curious coincidence that independent whisky bottling companies Signatory Vintage and Gordon & MacPhail have both released single malt bottlings from the Caperdonich distillery. That in itself is not so unusual, but the fact that both releases were distilled in 1994, bottled in 2011, aged in refill sherry hogshead casks, and bottled at 46% ABV, is quite unusual. If I didn't know better, I'd think both companies had a 17 year bet as to who could produce a better product under pretty much identical conditions.

This coincidence presented an opportune time to examine the differences that separate ageing can have on the same base spirit.

Caperdonich - Gordon & MacPhail (Left) and Signatory Vintage (Right)
Which whisky is which? (Hint: The colours in the photo match what you'd expect from our review)

Hellyers Road Distillery, Original Single Malt

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Hellyers Road is Australia's largest single malt distillery. Their Original expression comes without an age statement at 46.2% and is made entirely of Tasmanian malt. The wine bottle which contains this whisky comes complete with a screw top, and the back label describes "tenacity and vision," notably lacking any mention of the whisky's character.

Nose: Despite clear indications on the label, grain alcohol features prominently on the nose. Too much oak, grassy, a hint of smoke, something reminiscent of sea salt, a touch of black licorice. The nose is unrefined and lacks any significant depth.

Palate: The plum note and mint undertone is a nice but cheap cocoa packed with heat and uncomfortable spice are sure to trigger an involuntary grimace.

Berry's Own Caol Ila 10 Year Old

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As one of the UK's oldest and most prestigious wine and spirit merchants, Berry Bros. & Rudd enjoy a century old whisky tradition anchored by the Glenrothes distillery. They also produce a highly regarded independent bottling line that can be hard to get your hands on outside the UK. You can deduce just why it's scarce by perusing the label details on their limited releases. In this case we whisky lovers find the words that make us spend our money, specifically, "cask strength", "unchillfiltered", "uncoloured" and even the two cask numbers (309796 & 309881) that this bottle was drawn from. So, before we even peel the cork seal off, we are bewitched by the prospect of uncompromised whisky. 

For the purpose of immortalizing this unique bottle, I am pouring a sizeable belt of this 58.5% ABV, pale straw coloured liquid into my wide-bowl glencairn glass.

The Benriach 12 Year Old - Sherry Matured

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BenRiach-12-Sherry.pngIt has been many years since we have sampled a Benriach expression, and after re-reading our original review of the Benriach 10 Peated Single Malt, we had hopes that their unpeated spirit would show some redeeming qualities. Aged in a combination of Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez Sherry casks, this bottling has won a few awards, including a silver medal for the "15 and under" category of the 2011 International Wine and Spirits Competition.

Nose: Christmas spices and artificial cherries mingle quite nicely with a scent of strong fresh ginger. Behind the dominant aromas, a subtle trace of cinnamon bark and stale bread is found.

Gordon and MacPhail Scapa 2000

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One of the most memorable scotch buying experiences I have had was at the world-famous Whisky Shop Dufftown on the last day of the Spirit of Speyside festival last May. The shop was bustling with huge numbers of festivalgoers who had come to participate in the hundreds of distillery tours, tastings, and gala dinners that marked the preceding weekend's celebration of Speyside whisky and culture. 

Innumerable selections line every inch of the store from floor to ceiling, as well as across the tops of the half-dozen empty casks which serve as shelf space and bartops for visitors to sample the spirits. Everyone who had come into the shop was hunting for the perfect souvenir bottles to take back from the festival, and I tasted more than a few before finally hitting on one that spoke to me immediately: a Gordon and MacPhail Scapa from 2000. It was bottled in 2011 from refill ex-Bourbon barrels at 43%.

Ardmore Traditional Cask

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In the LCBO's $40-$50 price bracket, you take a bit of a chance trying a new bottle. Generally light on complexity, the choices range from biggest bang for your buck (Glenfiddich 12YO) to bland and immature expressions best suited to cooking (Glen Parker Single Malt). With this in mind, we took a stab at this Ardmore with some trepidation.

Nose: Light seaside peat of the sort barely kissed by Islay iodine. Creamy cherries and cloves with smoke and fennel. Dried fruits come out with a drop of water, which is highly recommended.

Bruichladdich Sherry Edition - Pedro Ximinez 1992

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It is an unfortunate reality that the LCBO typically doesn't make much of an effort to even occasionally stock their shelves with rarer Bruichladdich expressions. Typically, one must travel to locales where specialty shops stock harder to find releases. This 17 year old, 43% ABV bottling was purchased this past summer at the fantastic Park Avenue Liquor in New York City. Finishing in first-fill Pedro Ximénez sherry casks has transformed Bruichladdich's light, pure spirit into a rich smörgåsbord of notes and flavours.

Nose: Figs and dates immediately pop from the glass. Buttery toffee and brown sugar intermingle wonderfully with the light smoke of the base spirit. Richness is the defining characteristic here, a surprise departure from the typical Bruichladdich dram. There is a sweet fresh baked dough note that appears after adding a touch of water. 
As the year draws to a close I am left reflecting on everything that has come and gone in these past twelve months. Great days and rough days alike; incredible moments shared with family and friends; and the wonders of the whisky world that have punctuated many of those times. 

While this is not a retrospective, it certainly could be. At no time in my memory have we whisky lovers seen such proliferation of new products and rare editions. This only serves to make it even more difficult for the uninitiated to wade into the fray of the whisky world to find a bottle that they can feel proud about giving as a gift.

It is with that sentiment that we here at ScotchBlog offer up our 2012 edition of our annual Gift Buyer's Guide. Just like past editions, we will keep to our three price ranges of under $70, $70 to $100, and over $100 and include links to more detailed reviews of the whiskies on the list. This year there are some surprises as we venture out of Scotland and away from single malt, but as always, we will be using the LCBO's pricing as a guideline, meaning that you are apt to find these bottles for less in many other cities around the world should you reside in or be passing through such places. 

But enough of this sentimental preamble. Let's get to the whiskies. 

Glenfarclas 21 year old

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glenfarclas21.jpgGlenfarclas Distillery was established in 1836 and is one of the few remaining independent, family-owned, distilleries currently operating in Scotland. Situated in the heart of Speyside at the foot of the Ben Rinnes mountain, Glenfarclas - which means "Glen of the green grassland" in Gaelic - has been owned by J & G Grant for 6 generations. In that time they have perfected their house style which  is best summed up as a heavily sherry influenced single malt whisky. 
 
They attribute the unique flavour of their whisky to some of their traditional production methods such as using direct-fired copper pot stills in distillation and maturing their whisky in hand-selected ex-Oloroso and Fino sherry butts in dunnage-style warehouses. These warehouses are made of thick, stone walls, with earthen floors that restricts temperature fluctuations within 6 degrees Celsius. This is an important factor in achieving consistency in the maturation process as the casks are only stacked 3 high compared to a modern racked warehouse which can have casks stacked up to 12 high thereby producing a greater variation in temperature from the top to the bottom of the stack.

Nose: Straight away, sugary aromas of rock candy, bubblegum, and sherried fruits vault from the glass. Behind the heady sweetness is a tinge of malt accompanied by beeswax, almonds and vanilla.

Tobermory 10 year old

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Established as a brewery on the Isle of Mull in 1798, Tobermory began distilling whisky in 1823 and was closed in 1930 for over 40 years before re-opening in 1972. Operating as Ledaig, the distillery ran for a few years in the 70's before being put into receivership and was finally revived as Tobermory by Burn Stewart Distillers Ltd. in 1991. 

Bottled at 46.3% A.B.V.,  Tobermory 10 year old is made with un-peated malted barley and is unchillfiltered with no caramel added for colouring.

This bottle was purchased for a ScotchBlog.ca members' group nosing as the price was attractive and we wanted to sample this expression before its limited quantities in the LCBO run out.

Gordon & MacPhail Generations Glenlivet 70 Year Old

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70cl Decanter.jpgSome days have moments that make them great, while others are defined by a single moment. One that is the product of lifetimes of great moments coming together to create something truly special.

What if that single moment was created by a whisky carried for 70 years in the same cask? One that was carefully maintained and monitored by generations of a single family until the right moment arrived to share it with the world?

Incredibly, all of these rhetorical questions have been answered because the Urquhart family has achieved exactly that with this whisky. Distilled on February 3, 1940 and laid down for seven decades in first fill sherry cask number 339 under truly meticulous care from 3 generations of the family, it is a time machine in every sense. 

It carries the lucky consumer back to a day when the Battle of Britain raged, Speyside whiskies still used local peat to fire the roasting kiln, and when Glenlivet was the name in Scotch malt whisky.  

Isle of Arran Sleeping Warrior Single Malt

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The Sleeping Warrior is a limited release bottling from the Isle of Arran Distillery in a run of only 6000 bottles worldwide. The malt is vatted from a combination of American, sherry and red wine casks from 2000, selected by Master Distiller James MacTaggart and bottled in 2011 at a cask strength of 54.9%.

The Sleeping Warrior is named for the rolling hills which dominate the north of the Isle of Arran, and resemble a prone human figure when viewed in profile. A portion of sales from the bottling go to the National Trust of Scotland, to support conservation efforts along the path up Goat Fell, Arran's highest peak.

Colour: Dark reddish gold.

Nose: The nose immediately presents a rich sherry profile backed up by strong malty aromas, laced with notes of oatmeal, coconut and dark cherry. Sweet but complex fruitiness abounds and sets up all the elements that will play out in the palate.

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