Recently in Features Category

Lagavulin: Icon of Islay

| 2 Comments

Broadside.jpg

We set out just after dawn. Our boots steadily scrubbing the well weathered pavement as we crossed the faces of the white wind-rattled harbourfront homes. The sun shone down gloriously from a pristine blue sky as we turned left onto Lennox Street, now heading uphill with a quickening pace. It was a perfect Islay spring day in every way imaginable, and yet somehow all of this was secondary to the destination. 

There were just the three of us alone on that road. Marching over the hills; past the stone-walled fields; beyond Laphroaig. The only sounds: our footsteps, the wind, and the ocean. Then, past the old croft on the left, while rounding the bend to the right around the hill, it came into view. An alabaster visage as though conjured from a dream. Simultaneously surreal and hyper-real. 

We had arrived at Lagavulin.

We certainly enjoy writing about whisky here. By and large we write about the whisky itself, once it's in the glass. Here's a pared down description of the whisky-making process from start to finish. The overall steps in the production of all whiskies are the same everywhere on earth, but I'll only discuss the processes specific to single malt Scotch making, and I'm using a lexicon appropriate to that region. Other whisky-making regions have their own special techniques and nomenclature but in the interest of brevity I shall skip over these variations.

Album Grain Processing: Malting, Milling, and Mashing.

Malting

Malting is the process of generating enzymes within a grain which will allow the conversion of starch into sugar during the mashing process (outlined below). The malting process results in malted grain, or "malt". Grains are steeped several times in warm water, allowed to germinate and dry, and then kiln dried using either hot air or smoke. It is during the kiln drying that peat smoke may be used which imparts peat flavour into the malt.

Only about seven distilleries malt their own barley, the balance buying malt directly from malting houses.

On the Rocks: Whiskey Stones vs. Ice Cubes

| 2 Comments
ABSTRACT
Among all organoleptic pursuits there are gadgets, devices, dishes, and glassware designed to heighten, enhance or deliver the substance in question to the human sense organs. Over time, some of these inventions take root and become the preferred means by which the item is to be be consumed and enjoyed while others are seen as fads relegated to the dustbin of history. For the world of whiskey lovers, Teroforma has declared a solution to the problem of how best to chill whiskey. Assuming that you would want to do such a thing, we decided to investigate. 

teroforma2.jpg
The Whiskey Stone manufacturer claims that their stones, made in Vermont from natural non-porous soapstone, are more gentle than ice and can be used to cool down your favorite spirits just enough to take the edge off without "closing down" the flavors. Simply store the stones in the freezer for at least 4 hours before use, then add 3 stones to a glass with 2oz of whiskey and let stand 5 minutes. Moreover, the stones will not inadvertently scratch glassware and they are "particularly effective at retaining cold for extended periods of time."

While the claims that the stones impart no flavour, are non-porous, non-reactive, and won't inadvertently scratch glassware are sound, the claim that they are effective at retaining cold for extended periods did not reflect our collective experience with the stones. To resolve the matter, we set out to determine the cooling rates of ice, the traditional chilling method for whiskey, and Whiskey Stones so as to better understand the degree to which both chill a standard 2oz pour of whiskey and how long the dram stayed chilled. Running a series of measurements, ice was found to cool a dram faster and for a longer period than Whiskey Stones.

Having established the rates of cooling, we opened our discussion about the impact of Whiskey Stones on the enjoyment of a dram to our readership by means of a survey to shed light on the following: do readers chill their whiskey? How and under what circumstances do they chill whiskey and when might someone wish to use Whiskey Stones over ice? Finally, how many readers actually use them and think they're a necessary substitute to ice?

The essay below combines the empirical chilling data, analysis of the survey results and elucidation of ScotchBlog.ca's internal consensus to determine that Whiskey Stones provide little to no utility for the whiskey enthusiast. 

Good Whisky, Not Old Whisky

| 8 Comments
20120423_89.JPG

"Well, how old is it?" A whisky's age statement is one of about four standard specifications listed on a bottle, and does the least to describe what's in the bottle. When ScotchBlog.ca visited Scotland in April, not once did a distillery manager, master distiller, or master blender say, "I want to make a 30-year-old whisky." What they did say was that they wanted to make good whisky. No whisky can be judged by its age; the age statement is simply a way to categorize an expression, to build a brand.

The unique character common to a distillery's line is created before the spirit ever hits the barrel. Careful grain selection, maintaining a consistent fermentation procedure and specific yeast, the still design, the distillation process, and many other variables make one distillery's products unique among hundreds of other distilleries. Careful adherence to these procedures and materials keep a distillery's products consistent across expressions, and across decades of production.

The ScotchBlog Test Kitchen featuring Drambuie

| 3 Comments
drambuiebottle.jpg
Drambuie is a whisky liqueur made from a blend of grain and malt whiskies from the Speyside and Highland regions which is then mixed with a honeyed "elixir" that combines to give the liqueur it's distinct syrupy consistency and it's bright flavours of: honey, cloves, anise, cinnamon, citrus zest, ginger and light floral aromas. When I think of Drambuie, I think of the holidays and I typically drink it neat, on the rocks, or in a Rusty Nail. However, a chance re-acquaintance with Drambuie back in October led Matt and I to contemplate the possible pairings and recipes that would make the best use of "Bonnie Prince Charlie's" dram. 

To be honest, cooking with Drambuie is quite a challenge. The rich honeyed sweetness, the strong herbal component that becomes even more dominant when the liquid is heated and the floral element of the liqueur present a myriad of flavour bridges to your dish but achieving the desired balance of flavours is where it gets difficult. It's easy to add too much Drambuie and blow out the harmony of flavours. My best advice is to follow the rule "less is more" when it comes to cooking with Drambuie. The recipes below are a fun way to show off some culinary prowess this holiday season while introducing, or re-introducing, Drambuie to your friends and family: 

Drambuie Macerated Fruit

Drambuie-infused Homemade Marshmallows 

Sweet Potato Casserole with Drambuie Marshmallow topping

Drambuie Duck Drops

Master at Work: In the Lab with Brian Kinsman

| 0 Comments

LTOC2.jpgI have never seen anything like it. Wall-to-wall whiskies in sample bottles of all shapes and sizes. In the middle, a lab table set up with eight capped nosing copitas waiting. The scene played out as though there was an invisible metronome clacking out a rhythm to pace his movements, and then it ended before I could fully comprehend what I was watching. Eight whiskies nosed in 30 seconds.


Whiskies judged. Decisions made. 

This was Brian Kinsman at work. To him, he was merely wrapping up a small piece of his day: determining via samples how these casks would best be used. But while he did this, we could do no more than exchange looks of amazement and chuckle to ourselves. Clearly, we were going to learn more than we bargained for, as we were about to spend the next few hours in the lab with a Master Blender.

As the year draws to a close I am left reflecting on everything that has come and gone in these past twelve months. Great days and rough days alike; incredible moments shared with family and friends; and the wonders of the whisky world that have punctuated many of those times. 

While this is not a retrospective, it certainly could be. At no time in my memory have we whisky lovers seen such proliferation of new products and rare editions. This only serves to make it even more difficult for the uninitiated to wade into the fray of the whisky world to find a bottle that they can feel proud about giving as a gift.

It is with that sentiment that we here at ScotchBlog offer up our 2012 edition of our annual Gift Buyer's Guide. Just like past editions, we will keep to our three price ranges of under $70, $70 to $100, and over $100 and include links to more detailed reviews of the whiskies on the list. This year there are some surprises as we venture out of Scotland and away from single malt, but as always, we will be using the LCBO's pricing as a guideline, meaning that you are apt to find these bottles for less in many other cities around the world should you reside in or be passing through such places. 

But enough of this sentimental preamble. Let's get to the whiskies. 

Toronto's Emerging College Street Whisky Strip

| 1 Comment
For years now Toronto has been home to three truly world class whisky restaurants: Via Allegro in the West End, Allen's Restaurant staking its claim in the centre of town on Danforth Avenue, and The Feathers Pub in the East. Each houses a truly astonishing collection of rare bottles and provides something unique in terms of menu, venue, and location.

Over the past three years though, a more contemporary and closely clustered trio of restaurants with a strong whisky focus has developed along short stretch of College Street bracketed by Ossington Avenue and Dovercourt Road. In fact, the distance between the two furthest from each other measures a mere 200 metres from door to door. 

But who are these newcomers and what do they bring to the table?


Whether for a birthday, a holiday, or any other special day, getting the perfect gift always results in a smug feeling of accomplishment. Father's Day is one of those opportunities to impress "dear old dad", and if he's a whisky lover then the right bottle can do just that. But how do you pick the "right" bottle? The first tip is to examine his existing collection to figure out what he already has. The second? To read on! 

As always, I have made every attempt to ensure that all whiskies listed herein are available in the LCBO at the time of publication. For those with more limited stocks I've provided a direct link to the current inventory listings and locations. With all of the whiskies listed, the title links to the full write up of the bottle, so if you need a little more detail please click away. 

For those that are not residents of Ontario, you may have different whiskies available to you, and quite likely via a larger selection. So if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to reach out with those questions via Twitter, directly through email using the link to the upper-right, or by carefully deducing my email address. Anyway, enough qualifying, pandering, and coordinating. 

This is your 2012 Father's Day edition of the Gift Buyer's Guide.


GordonMacPhail.JPG
In the world of independent bottlers there are many names, but few are more recognizable or reliable than Gordon & MacPhail. Founded in 1895 in Elgin, Scotland as a combination grocer, wine, and spirit merchant, the company has managed to remain family owned to this day while amassing a truly astonishing collection of rare casks, unique whiskies, and its own distillery. 

What makes Gordon & MacPhail so special? I chatted with Michael Urquhart, Joint Managing Director, to find out.


No matter what holiday you celebrate, there is no denying the fact that we are now in the middle of the gift buying season once again. So whether it be for a friend, family member, co-worker, or yourself, if you are anything like me then you could probably use a helping hand in selecting a couple gifts. Well, if you are looking at giving whisky as a gift, then let us help you with that task. 

As always, I'll lay it out into 3 price ranges (based on LCBO pricing) of Under $70, $70 to $100, and Over $100, and this year there are some real treats out there, both rare and wonderful, and many with dwindling supplies. So read on and don't forget, if you provide yourself enough time, inter-store transfers are free in Ontario.

This is your 2011 holiday edition of the Gift Buyer's Guide.

The Man Behind the Cask: Brian Kinsman

| 0 Comments | 0 TrackBacks
Sample room BK.jpg
He is one of the youngest master blenders in the industry and looks after a portfolio so large that you will be hard pressed to make it through the next year without indulging in something presided over by his palate. That goes for rum, gin, blended Scotch whisky, and everything to do with the world's most awarded single malt, Glenfiddich.

In 2009, Brian took over the William Grant & Sons portfolio. But how does a chemistry graduate from St. Andrew's University end up taking over for the David Stewart?  Well, apparently the path to inevitable renown begins by taking a job in product development at a manufacturing firm in the dental industry. 

Whisky Live Toronto 2011

| 1 Comment | 0 TrackBacks
Whisky Live 2011 Crowd ShotWith all due respect to baseball fans for this analogy, Whisky Live is fast becoming the only "Fall Classic" on the Toronto whisky aficionado's mind. With a host of exhibitors, whiskies from around the world, and a sea of devotees to the dram, this year's edition and its new confines in the Metro Toronto Convention Centre's North building certainly topped years past. Armed with a notebook, a press pass, and a Glencairn glass, Jeff and I had at it for your reading pleasure. 

So click on for news of whiskies yet to be released, the stars of the show, and a snapshot of the sights and smells of the cornerstone of the fall whisky calendar.

Ardbeg Tasting at Harbour Sixty

| 1 Comment | 0 TrackBacks
Harbour Sixty EntranceMatchmaking has long been a skill that mankind has sought to perfect. But pairing a tasting of a Scotch whisky with a cult following with arguably Toronto's most venerated steakhouse may just be the pinnacle of such quests to occur in Toronto this year. 

Combining rich ambiance, a knowledgeable and personable group, fantastic food and drink, and some excellent news, LVMH and DDB served to raise the bar for tasting events very early this whisky season. 

So it came to this. Two expertly crafted blended Scotch whiskies dueling head to head.
The arena: seven battle tested palates with a near insatiable thirst for whisky.
The results: surprising in their certainty.
 
 

Feeds


Whisky Wheel

OpenID accepted here Learn more about OpenID