The Famous Jubilee, Special Edition Reserve

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famousjubilee.jpgThe Famous Jubilee was globally released last May to coincide with the commemoration of Her Majesty The Queen's Diamond Jubilee. Bottled at 40% A.B.V, this limited edition expression is the creation of The Famous Grouse master blender Gordon Motion and contains a blended selection of aged single malt (including The Macallan and Highland Park) and sweet grain whiskies to celebrate the Queen's 60 years on the throne. 

Canada was one of only a handful of export markets for this special edition blend and about 200 cases found their way to the LCBO. It must have been a long, tedious, voyage for this shipment. The neatly packaged bottles only appeared on the shelves earlier this year in January, 8 months after release and 6 months after the mighty flotilla cruised the Thames. While others in the Commonwealth toasted to Her Majesty's health with a special dram, we didn't know what we were missing.

Until now.

Here's your leg up on one of the best, limited run, values for blended scotch whisky in the LCBO.


Lagavulin: Icon of Islay

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We set out just after dawn. Our boots steadily scrubbing the well weathered pavement as we crossed the faces of the white wind-rattled harbourfront homes. The sun shone down gloriously from a pristine blue sky as we turned left onto Lennox Street, now heading uphill with a quickening pace. It was a perfect Islay spring day in every way imaginable, and yet somehow all of this was secondary to the destination. 

There were just the three of us alone on that road. Marching over the hills; past the stone-walled fields; beyond Laphroaig. The only sounds: our footsteps, the wind, and the ocean. Then, past the old croft on the left, while rounding the bend to the right around the hill, it came into view. An alabaster visage as though conjured from a dream. Simultaneously surreal and hyper-real. 

We had arrived at Lagavulin.

We certainly enjoy writing about whisky here. By and large we write about the whisky itself, once it's in the glass. Here's a pared down description of the whisky-making process from start to finish. The overall steps in the production of all whiskies are the same everywhere on earth, but I'll only discuss the processes specific to single malt Scotch making, and I'm using a lexicon appropriate to that region. Other whisky-making regions have their own special techniques and nomenclature but in the interest of brevity I shall skip over these variations.

Album Grain Processing: Malting, Milling, and Mashing.

Malting

Malting is the process of generating enzymes within a grain which will allow the conversion of starch into sugar during the mashing process (outlined below). The malting process results in malted grain, or "malt". Grains are steeped several times in warm water, allowed to germinate and dry, and then kiln dried using either hot air or smoke. It is during the kiln drying that peat smoke may be used which imparts peat flavour into the malt.

Only about seven distilleries malt their own barley, the balance buying malt directly from malting houses.

South Island Single Malt 18 Year Old

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NZSI18.jpgOriginally born as Lammerlaw single malt whisky at the Willowbank Distillery in Dunedin on New Zealand's South Island, the whisky in this bottle has survived many tumultuous and uncertain years prior to reaching Ontario's shelves. 

Once part of the now defunct Seagrams empire, the distillery was mothballed in 2000 when then-owners Fosters shipped the stills to Fiji to make rum. Meanwhile, the remaining cask stocks were bought by The New Zealand Malt Whisky Company which itself crumbled in 2010, only to be revived by a group of international investors later that year. All told, 600 casks from Willowbank were procured, the majority of them Lammerlaw malt, and now we and the rest of the world are finally seeing the release of their contents.

This particular whisky was distilled in 1993, bottled in 2011, and like its provenance, is simultaneously intriguing, enigmatic, strangely familiar, and thoroughly enjoyable.

On the Rocks: Whiskey Stones vs. Ice Cubes

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ABSTRACT
Among all organoleptic pursuits there are gadgets, devices, dishes, and glassware designed to heighten, enhance or deliver the substance in question to the human sense organs. Over time, some of these inventions take root and become the preferred means by which the item is to be be consumed and enjoyed while others are seen as fads relegated to the dustbin of history. For the world of whiskey lovers, Teroforma has declared a solution to the problem of how best to chill whiskey. Assuming that you would want to do such a thing, we decided to investigate. 

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The Whiskey Stone manufacturer claims that their stones, made in Vermont from natural non-porous soapstone, are more gentle than ice and can be used to cool down your favorite spirits just enough to take the edge off without "closing down" the flavors. Simply store the stones in the freezer for at least 4 hours before use, then add 3 stones to a glass with 2oz of whiskey and let stand 5 minutes. Moreover, the stones will not inadvertently scratch glassware and they are "particularly effective at retaining cold for extended periods of time."

While the claims that the stones impart no flavour, are non-porous, non-reactive, and won't inadvertently scratch glassware are sound, the claim that they are effective at retaining cold for extended periods did not reflect our collective experience with the stones. To resolve the matter, we set out to determine the cooling rates of ice, the traditional chilling method for whiskey, and Whiskey Stones so as to better understand the degree to which both chill a standard 2oz pour of whiskey and how long the dram stayed chilled. Running a series of measurements, ice was found to cool a dram faster and for a longer period than Whiskey Stones.

Having established the rates of cooling, we opened our discussion about the impact of Whiskey Stones on the enjoyment of a dram to our readership by means of a survey to shed light on the following: do readers chill their whiskey? How and under what circumstances do they chill whiskey and when might someone wish to use Whiskey Stones over ice? Finally, how many readers actually use them and think they're a necessary substitute to ice?

The essay below combines the empirical chilling data, analysis of the survey results and elucidation of ScotchBlog.ca's internal consensus to determine that Whiskey Stones provide little to no utility for the whiskey enthusiast. 

On March 7th, 2013 ScotchBlog.ca along with Forty Creek Distillery hosted a tasting at Quinn's Steakhouse and Irish Bar.

Guests were treated to some of Canada's finest whiskies created by local distiller, John Hall, at Forty Creek Distillery in Grimsby, Ontario.

The tasting started with three single-grain whiskies: 100% rye paired with spiced fruit, 100% barley with sharp Guinness cheddar, and 100% corn with spicy corn dip and tortillas. None of these whiskies are available for sale as John insists of selling only blends.

The tasting moved on to Forty Creek's bottles: Barrel Select paired with a sweet and sour beef meatball, Copper Pot with chili orange toffee and figs, Confederation Oak Reserve with smoked pork belly and raspberry bbq sauce, and finally the very limited Port Wood Reserve with a custom R&R dark chocolate ganache with rum-soaked raisins.

John led nothing less than a masterclass on how he makes his whisky, his motivations for establishing the distillery, and ruminations about the industry in general.

A very special thanks to Kelly and Quinn's for the expertly prepared food pairings!

Thanks very much to all who attended. Please enjoy this photo gallery of the evening.

It is a curious coincidence that independent whisky bottling companies Signatory Vintage and Gordon & MacPhail have both released single malt bottlings from the Caperdonich distillery. That in itself is not so unusual, but the fact that both releases were distilled in 1994, bottled in 2011, aged in refill sherry hogshead casks, and bottled at 46% ABV, is quite unusual. If I didn't know better, I'd think both companies had a 17 year bet as to who could produce a better product under pretty much identical conditions.

This coincidence presented an opportune time to examine the differences that separate ageing can have on the same base spirit.

Caperdonich - Gordon & MacPhail (Left) and Signatory Vintage (Right)
Which whisky is which? (Hint: The colours in the photo match what you'd expect from our review)

Hellyers Road Distillery, Original Single Malt

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Hellyers Road is Australia's largest single malt distillery. Their Original expression comes without an age statement at 46.2% and is made entirely of Tasmanian malt. The wine bottle which contains this whisky comes complete with a screw top, and the back label describes "tenacity and vision," notably lacking any mention of the whisky's character.

Nose: Despite clear indications on the label, grain alcohol features prominently on the nose. Too much oak, grassy, a hint of smoke, something reminiscent of sea salt, a touch of black licorice. The nose is unrefined and lacks any significant depth.

Palate: The plum note and mint undertone is a nice but cheap cocoa packed with heat and uncomfortable spice are sure to trigger an involuntary grimace.

And Now for Something Completely Different...

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Almost. 

It has been over a month since our last guest tasting and reader meet-up, so the time has come to break this streak. On Thursday, March 7th we will be hosting another special evening of whisky and food frivolity, and this time we're going home. 

A week from today, we and our guests will have the privilege of getting to know Canada's premier independent distillery in much greater detail as the one and only John Hall takes us on a deep dive into all that is Forty Creek. Now many of you may be thinking: this is ScotchBlog and that's not Scotch whisky. You're right, and that's the point. Over the past few years this distillery has been one of the leaders of the resurgence of Canadian whisky at home and abroad, so we felt it was only fair that if we were going to see what all the hype was about, that we should share it with as many people as we can. 

So next Thursday 40 people will be treated to 7 whiskies including the raw components that John uses in creating his signature expressions. As always, each whisky will be paired with food selected to accentuate the flavours in the glass and the cost will include the whisky and the food. 

Just what is the cost? Merely $42. 

How do you secure your spot? Well, to your right you'll see how to "Contact Us" to let us know that you want to attend. 

If you end up on the waiting list, don't panic. There are always a few last minute shuffles as life often tends to throw a few plans askew, and for those of you that don't happen to make it, but want to be added to our "advance notice list" for future events, that would also be the way to get on that list. Our advance notice list always receives the first right of refusal for seats prior to these posts, and I promise you: we don't send spam emails. 

On behalf of everyone at ScotchBlog, we look forward to sharing a memorable night of Canadian whisky wonder with you. 

Berry's Own Caol Ila 10 Year Old

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As one of the UK's oldest and most prestigious wine and spirit merchants, Berry Bros. & Rudd enjoy a century old whisky tradition anchored by the Glenrothes distillery. They also produce a highly regarded independent bottling line that can be hard to get your hands on outside the UK. You can deduce just why it's scarce by perusing the label details on their limited releases. In this case we whisky lovers find the words that make us spend our money, specifically, "cask strength", "unchillfiltered", "uncoloured" and even the two cask numbers (309796 & 309881) that this bottle was drawn from. So, before we even peel the cork seal off, we are bewitched by the prospect of uncompromised whisky. 

For the purpose of immortalizing this unique bottle, I am pouring a sizeable belt of this 58.5% ABV, pale straw coloured liquid into my wide-bowl glencairn glass.

The Benriach 12 Year Old - Sherry Matured

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BenRiach-12-Sherry.pngIt has been many years since we have sampled a Benriach expression, and after re-reading our original review of the Benriach 10 Peated Single Malt, we had hopes that their unpeated spirit would show some redeeming qualities. Aged in a combination of Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez Sherry casks, this bottling has won a few awards, including a silver medal for the "15 and under" category of the 2011 International Wine and Spirits Competition.

Nose: Christmas spices and artificial cherries mingle quite nicely with a scent of strong fresh ginger. Behind the dominant aromas, a subtle trace of cinnamon bark and stale bread is found.

On January 24th, 2013, ScotchBlog.ca along with Gordon & MacPhail hosted a tasting at Quinn's Steakhouse and Irish Bar.

Guests were treated to five single-malts casked and matured by Gordon & MacPhail, two made by the company's distillery, Benromach, and finally their whisky liqueur, Dunkeld Atholl Brose.

Single malts included Bladnoch '93 with a spicy chocolate, Allt-A-Bhainne '96 with an orange BBQ pulled pork slider, Craigellachie '93 with a Thai vegetable rice wrap and chili dipping sauce, Mortlach 15YO with oxtail truffled mash sheppard's pie, Benromach 30YO with a coconut shrimp and spicy dipping sauce, Aultmore '00 with a vanilla poached pear, and Benromach 10YO with a raisin and cashew butter tart.

The tasting was led by Gordon & MacPhail's managing director, Michael Urquhart, who provided some of the most in-depth distillery and expression discussion we've ever experienced. The evening could only be described as a master class.

Thanks very much to all who attended. Please enjoy this photo gallery of the evening.

Gordon and MacPhail Scapa 2000

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One of the most memorable scotch buying experiences I have had was at the world-famous Whisky Shop Dufftown on the last day of the Spirit of Speyside festival last May. The shop was bustling with huge numbers of festivalgoers who had come to participate in the hundreds of distillery tours, tastings, and gala dinners that marked the preceding weekend's celebration of Speyside whisky and culture. 

Innumerable selections line every inch of the store from floor to ceiling, as well as across the tops of the half-dozen empty casks which serve as shelf space and bartops for visitors to sample the spirits. Everyone who had come into the shop was hunting for the perfect souvenir bottles to take back from the festival, and I tasted more than a few before finally hitting on one that spoke to me immediately: a Gordon and MacPhail Scapa from 2000. It was bottled in 2011 from refill ex-Bourbon barrels at 43%.

The Glen of Tranquility

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Its 10:30 PM on a mild May night in the highlands of Scotland, and I am gazing out towards the North Sea as I stumble in the dark through the walled garden of Glenmorangie House. Picking my steps carefully in the wet grass, a camera tripod in one hand and a wide tumbler of Ardbeg Uigeadail in the other, I am grateful for the wellies I have been provided by the staff as my fellow travel companions get situated for some stargazing and photography. It is our last real night in Scotland, the end of a whisky odyssey that began 12 days earlier, and has taken us from the tasting lab of The Whisky Exchange in London to the Spirit of Speyside festival in Dufftown, from the island distilleries of Islay and Jura to the peak of Ben Nevis, and ended here at the Glenmorangie House outside Tain.

The Glenmorangie House is a 17th century country home 45 minutes north of Inverness, situated among the ruins of Cadboll castle, which is now owned by the Glenmorangie Distillery and provides guests with luxury hotel amenities in the atmosphere of a relaxed country house party. For a whisky traveller, Glenmorangie House represents the pinnacle of Highland hospitality, receiving visitors with open arms and offering an unmatched experience of stunning landscape, Scottish tradition, and opulent comfort. Not to mention the full range of Glenmorangie and Ardbeg whiskies to be enjoyed, paired skillfully with locally sourced, Michelin-star cuisine. Our group was generously offered the opportunity to experience a stay at the house before our tour of the distillery itself the following morning, where we would witness the production of the spirit itself.

Ardmore Traditional Cask

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In the LCBO's $40-$50 price bracket, you take a bit of a chance trying a new bottle. Generally light on complexity, the choices range from biggest bang for your buck (Glenfiddich 12YO) to bland and immature expressions best suited to cooking (Glen Parker Single Malt). With this in mind, we took a stab at this Ardmore with some trepidation.

Nose: Light seaside peat of the sort barely kissed by Islay iodine. Creamy cherries and cloves with smoke and fennel. Dried fruits come out with a drop of water, which is highly recommended.

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