ScotchBlog

Mackmyra Swedish Single Malt - The 1st Edition

2012-05-13T18:23:58Z

Mackmyra 1st Edition Swedish single malt was a bit of an epiphany purchase for me at the LCBO. Having recently returned from the whisky trail in Scotland I was on the hunt for an inexpensive yet interesting bottle (the gold standard for the frugal whisky enthusiast). Mackmyra's bright contemporary packaging suggests a young whisky and its Swedish origin held the promise of something a little bit different. This expression is aged in 100 litre casks, which accelerates the aging process, and weighs in at 46.1% unchillfiltered. There is no age statement.

]]> Nose: Bright citrus and floral notes right off the hop with cinnamon, leather, and dried fruit. A wee bit alcoholic, though enjoyably so. Quite fresh and summery (perhaps it's the packaging's bright orange theme) and just a hint of salt. With time the bottle opens up to gentle endearing sweetness. Very subtle black licorice. Delightful nose. What a treat.

Palate: A robust, velvety, and warm mouthfeel with subtle flavours of dried fruit and leather.

Finish: The leather note continues with cocoa, mild black licorice and lingering enjoyable warmth.

Overall: Gentle warmth on the palate and finish for the colder months and a light and fruity nose for the warmer months, the 1st Edition is a whisky for all seasons. Price is $66.95 at the LCBO. I must say I have a bit of a soft spot for new distilleries. The plight of a young producer is rife with significant capital requirements, a steep learning curve, and the monumental challenge of squeezing yourself in to a crowded market dominated by juggernaut incumbents. It behooves serious whisky enthusiasts to support these newcomers in the hope that we'll see unique and interesting expressions down the line. Mackmyra's 1st Edition bottling suggests a bright future for the distillery.

Game-on in Glassware: The Glencairn Glass vs The NEAT Glass

2012-04-30T10:02:32Z

For some time now the choice glass of whisky festivals the world over has been the Glencairn glass, and most often these are also the first places people have a chance to try a glass made for whisky. Typically emblazoned with the festival logo, or that of the distillery being visited, it has become a de facto festival requirement, and a staple of the whisky world.

Recently I was contacted by the purveyors of the NEAT glass to give it a trial run to see how it matched up to my normal glassware. Given that I am prone to trying just about anything at least once (line dancing and nefarious acts notwithstanding) I agreed to give it a go. So for a month now I have been working through various whiskies, comparing it to my everyday glass: The Glencairn.

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The Glencairn glass purports to have been developed over 20 years ago by Raymond Davidson specifically for whisky, then shelved until his sons resurrected it and took it to the master blenders for a test drive. Since then it has gone on to win the Queen's Award for Innovation in 2006, become the glass found at just about every distillery in Scotland, and claimed a place on the shelves of whisky lovers the world over. Designed explicitly to enhance the enjoyment of whisky, its bowl-shaped bottom fits easily in the hand to aid in gently warming the whisky (the way I personally enjoy it the most), while the tapering effect of the neck and mouth is designed to provide a concentration point to maximize the aromas.

The NEAT glass is an entirely different animal. Designed by Arsilica Inc. in Las Vegas, the NEAT (an acronym for Naturally Engineered Aroma Technology) glass employs a divergent rim as opposed to the

convergent style of most glasses. The goal of this being to diffuse the volatile alcohol vapours, thereby reducing the numbing effect on the nose and subsequently making it easier to pick out the other elements and aromas in the whisky or other such spirits. Short, squat, and reminiscent of a votive candle holder, it is also designed to maximize the surface area of the whisky to further accentuate the non-alcohol components of the nosing experience.

For the purposes of comparing the two glasses I decided to use a number of different styles and strengths of whisky, including Four Roses Small Batch, Booker's, and Rip Van Winkle 10 bourbons, Bowmore Tempest, Rosebank 17, Glenfiddich 15, a couple from Ardbeg, and a number of other Speyside and Highland whiskies. For each whisky tested, I measured out standard 1 ounce pours for each glass, using them in 2 simultaneous 10 minute intervals to ensure that influential factors such as hand-warming and time in the glass were both mitigated equally. Alright, enough rhetoric. On to the findings!

Right off the hop and for each and every whisky, the NEAT glass certainly delivered on its first promise. Head-to-head against the Glencairn it delivers a demonstrably diminished alcohol element. Gone is the blast of ethanol that singes nose hairs and sinuses, instead providing only the scents and sensations of the malt, spirit, and wood. For those who have issue getting past the alcohol vapours in a nosing, yet love their whisky, there is no question that the NEAT glass is the next item they should purchase.

But beyond the initial reduction in alcohol vapour, I found that the two glasses traded blows very evenly.

For the lighter, fruitier elements of whiskies I found that the Glencairn carried the day with ease. Its design served to deliver a much more concentrated assembly of the light apple, citrus, and floral elements. Yet, with the peated expressions the NEAT glass provided a more delicate handling of the powerful smoky scent. With a fruity peated whisky I found it to be a dead heat. In the Ardbeg 10 test for example, the lime-citrus and pepper notes are much more apparent in the Glencairn glass, while the NEAT glass dials up the vanilla and earthy elements of the peat to wonderful effect. For the toffees, oaky notes, and spice elements I found both the Glencairn and NEAT glasses to deliver equal performance.

When dealing with cask strength whiskies, one would expect that the diffusion of alcohol vapours would give the NEAT glass a walk-off home run. Without question it handles the task in a truly remarkable fashion. Yet, I found that with whiskies that were North of 57% ABV, the effect seemed to go slightly in the opposite direction of its intention. It was almost as though the diffusion of the alcohol vapours carried off some of the aromas as well; perhaps a case of the science behind the glass being too perfect. But above 46% and below 57% it delivered everything the Glencairn did, without the heat and almost all of the aromas, save some of the citrus elements in some whiskies which were there, yet slightly muted. All things considered, the NEAT glass is almost perfectly suited to cask strength whiskies, while the Glencairn glass benefits from the provision of a few drops of water to reduce the heat funneling out of it, after which it delivers an equally impressive performance.

In the arena of ergonomics however, the was considerable separation between the two. The circumference of the Glencairn glass at the widest part of the bulb is an even 21cm, fitting nicely in the plam of the hand. Conversely, since the NEAT glass is designed to maximize the surface area of its contents, its circumference is 25.5cm at its widest point. While this may serve it very well when it comes solely to the act of nosing the whisky, I found it to be a bit cumbersome in the hand. As for the actual act of drinking the dram, the Glencairn is a standard glass and as such offers no issue to me whatsoever. The NEAT on the other hand requires tilting of ever-increasing angles as the whisky level drops with each successive sip due to the sharp angles created by the divergent rim. Once past the 1/3 remaining point, I had my head tilted up, with my nose directly in the glass and over the contents, resulting in a blast of alcohol in the final sips. Therefore from a physical use standpoint, my preference remains strongly on the side of the Glencairn glass. For me it simply fits more easily in my hand and is easier for me to drink from at the end of the day.

In conclusion, both glasses present the consumer with unique advantages and drawbacks, and it is a matter of personal preference to determine which characteristics one prefers to accentuate or minimize. The NEAT glass will not be usurping the Glencairn's position as my every day glass as I prefer the concentrated nose that it provides along with the comfortable physical design of the glass. That said, I will be reaching for the NEAT glass when pouring cask strength whisky as it does serve that segment particularly well. All in all the Glencairn may have won the day, but the NEAT glass is certainly worth adding to your arsenal.

Islay Mist 8 years old Blended Scotch Whisky

2012-04-26T13:00:00Z

Islay Mist Blended Scotch is probably one of the best deals going at the LCBO for a blended scotch whisky. The story goes that Islay Mist was originally created on Islay in 1922 to celebrate the 21st birthday of Lord Margadale as it was thought that the local single malt scotch, Laphroaig, might be too heavy for all the guests' taste. In order to assuage their sensibilities, a blend of Laphroaig with Speyside malts and grain whisky was born.

Nose: Sweet malt with a briny note. Old leather, campfire smoke and peat sit just below the sweeter aromas.

]]> Palate: Soft yet oily with mouth-coating vanilla sweetness and toasted bread notes. The Laphroaig component calls out with a tang of smoke and peat as a smear of iodine runs along to the finish providing a nice counter to the sweeter elements. Like smoky candy in a glass!

Finish: Long, smoky and medicinal but redolent with hits of peppery spice and cocoa. Near the end, a sharp sourness punctuated with a satisfying bite that forces the utterance of a guttural "eaaaghh" affirming that yes, I've just had a good belt.

Overall: Tremendous value. A real steal to be enjoyed in a flask, in a glass, over ice, with water etc... Not a lot of heat here but definitely a kick. Truthfully, this is probably one of the best experiences I've had with Laphroaig (mind you at the time of publication, I've only ever tasted the Quarter Cask) and I feel that it's blend mates really help restrain the strong peaty flavours characteristic of the malt. Just shy of $30, it's become one of my "house" blends and has been formative in acting as a "gateway dram" to more heavily peated single malts and blends.

Benromach Peat Smoke

2012-04-24T00:54:03Z

Peated expressions are far from anything new in the world of Scotch whisky. Yet there is something distinctly different about this offering from one of the smallest distilleries in Speyside.

For those unfamiliar with the difference in peat, Islay peat carries the familiar iodine and briny notes whereas the Highland peat used by Benromach brings a much more mellow smoky element to the table. This is something that serves this medium bodied whisky well, especially when cranked up to 35ppm and balanced against an excellent core spirit.

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Nose: Distinctly creamy and fruity with notes of toasted grains, there is only a light smokiness present at first. That is until water is added. Then the smoke erupts alongside fresh grassy tones and a hint of vanilla. Yet even during this blast, that smoky element is vastly different and much softer than anything else I have experienced in this ppm range.

Palate: Apricots and peaches dazzle along with the friendly zip of black pepper, all fused with a delightful cluster of spice and velvety smoke. The addition of water maintains the fruity elements while turning up the volume on that smoke and spice combination, evoking memories of a Sunday afternoon barbecue.

Finish: Refined, smooth, and short. The peaches and smoke linger, fading just slowly enough to allow time to properly savour it before heading back to the glass for another sip.

Overall: A perfect balance between sweet, spice, and smoke, it is well set up to take a splash of water at 46%. Surprising in its dichotomy of simplicity and complexity, this is a bottle worth hunting.

Sadly not (as of time of writing) available in Ontario, it is available in neighboring Quebec for $66.25. For our Alberta readers Kensington Wine Market has it on for $69.49, and for those of you either residing in Chicago or taking a short jaunt there for a few days, the fine folks over at Binny's will charge you $69.99 to take it home.

Bowmore Laimrig - 15 Year Old

2012-04-14T01:58:16Z

This cask strength bottling from the fine folks over at Bowmore absolutely blew our socks off. The word 'laimrig' is Gaelic for a pier or wharf. Like the ocean, this cask strength bottling is not to be taken lightly. In fact, at 54.4% ABV, it is so powerful that one of our writers actually felt as though he singed some nose hair after taking a whiff too close to his glass!

This was a limited 15000 bottle run in which we were lucky enough to obtain bottle number 14655.

Nose: Wonderful notes of toasted candied walnuts with toffee and Toblerone Bar chocolatiness. A wonderful light maltiness mixed with maple syrup delight the nose. Through all this sweetness however, there is a definite kick of campfire smoke and sea spray.

]]> Palate: Working through several phases, this whisky takes you on a journey. Beginning with a sharp initial heat, the sweetness of sherry and dried fruits take over. As this whisky evolves ever so briefly into a bittersweet chocolate which quickly gives way to sea-salt brine, one really gets the sense that this is definitely a coastal malt. The sea is ever so present in this dram, and leaves me longing to walk along an Islay beach.

Finish: Quite drying, which leaves pleasant sherry notes with a hint of salt and pepper chips.

Overall: A wonderful release; we absolutely love well-done, lightly peated and sherried whiskies and this is definitely one of those. Make sure you add a small splash of water to this before nosing lest you suffer the same olfactory overload we did.

Glengoyne 21 year old

2012-04-05T13:00:00Z

I received this bottle of Glengoyne 21 as a birthday present from my fellow ScotchBloggers last year and it's been a wonderful companion lo these many months. Even at first glance, I recall being greatly pleased by what I read:

"The real taste of malt untainted by peat smoke," and "Sherry matured."

This multi-award winning Highland single malt whisky was matured in first fill European Oak Oloroso Sherry casks and the result is nothing short of amazing. Prior to this expression I'd never sampled anything by Glengoyne but, as I sit contemplating my glass and the despairingly little amount left in my bottle, I'd be hard pressed to imagine a better introduction to the distillery.

Nose: Enticing aromas of brown sugar, red apple, rich Oloroso Sherry, accented by whiffs of coffee and spice. Christmas morning in a glass.

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Palate: Big, rich and mouth-coating sherry flavours sit alongside delicious notes of mocha and honey with a seam of cinnamon and ginger running long into the finish. Beautifully balanced. Although it is a very easy-drinking whisky, there's enough complexity and heft in its character to warrant serious contemplation.

Finish: Commanding with a long and evolving fade out. Slightly spicy, fruity, with prominent dark chocolate and cinnamon.

Overall: This is a stunning example of a well-aged, sherry matured Highland single malt whisky. There's no woodiness or mustiness that sometimes accompanies whiskies "of a certain age" and there are no rough edges or harsh elements that distract from the delightfully smooth and harmonious balance of flavours. To date, this is easily one of the best whisky's I have ever had.

As an added bonus, I discovered that it pairs very well with a French Mimolette I purchased from the Leslieville Cheese Market. The slightly salty, nutty, hard and flavourful cheese serves to accentuate the sweetness of the malt. A sip of Glengoyne with a sliver of Mimiolette produces an array of sherry, caramel and hazelnut flavours that are thrust to the forefront as the remaining saltiness from the cheese washes from the palate preparing you for another round. Simply amazing.

Bruichladdich 2001: The Resurrection Dram

2012-04-04T02:09:30Z

Founded in 1881 by the Harvey family and brought back to life by Mark Reynier, Jim McEwan, and company in 2001, Bruichladdich's first spirit to flow forth from the stills after the rebirth is designed to reach back to the distillery's past. Lightly peated at 10ppm and served up at a hearty 46% ABV, it is hard to believe that this whisky spent just 7 years in the cask. ]]> Nose: Instantly rich dried fruits and a distinct nuttiness appear. This followed by a unique combination of oak, salt air, and light peat all laid out atop a soft undercurrent of vanilla. Adding a splash of water helps diminish the punch without reducing the aromas.

Palate: The rich mouthfeel surprises those who know its true age and fools those who don't. Rolling in like an Islay tide, the peat notes evoke the char on a properly cooked steak prior to giving way to sweet salted honey and malt elements. This is all matched with a light toasted oak woodiness to wonderful effect.

Finish: Delightfully dry, yet sweet. The oak lingers while vanilla notes pop up over a twist of smoke that leaves me thinking of a post barbecue dessert.

Overall: A blatant steal at $66.90 in the LCBO, this 7 year old whisky delivers the presence of some 12 year old drams. It exhibits all of the elements of a classic Islay malt but with more fruit and less peat than many have come to expect from the island's distilleries. So what's my final verdict? Well, I'm picking up another bottle tomorrow if that tells you anything.

Mortlach 15 year old by Gordon & MacPhail

2012-03-30T13:00:00Z

Gordon & MacPhail's bottling of Mortlach new make aged 15 years in refill sherry casks shows that sometimes, you can have too much of a good cask...

Nose: Sweet with generous burnt brown sugar, raisins, and ripe red apples atop a musty, almost sulfurous, woodiness that sits heavy in the glass. No real change in profile with time in air or a splash of water.

Palate: Medium-bodied with mouth-coating honey sweetness. Fruity notes of fig, orange, plantains are complemented by nutmeg, vanilla, and a hint of mint. Quite peppery, the woodiness remains a central feature that carries with it a considerable amount of heat to the finish.

]]> Finish: Warming with an aggressive dryness that forces the fruitier elements aside to make way for a woody, resonating and spicy heat. Mid-way through the long and evolving finish, the sherry flavours kick in again but they are dry, nutty and a touch sour.

Overall: An interesting malt from a distillery we rarely see in single malt form in Toronto, however I find this expression by Gordon & MacPhail to be quite closed, musty and dry. I nearly drowned my whisky with water trying to find a way to balance out not only the heat of the spirit but also the musty woodiness that serves as a screen for much of the flavour. I've let it "breathe," I've added water, I've warmed it up in hand and let it cool yet I found that it never opened up much beyond when first poured. There are some very nice elements within this malt but, on the whole, I'm disappointed with my purchase. Mortlach devotees may find this to be a nice addition to their collection but there are better sherried Speyside malts at this price in the LCBO.

Recap: Tullibardine Tasting at Quinn's Steakhouse - March 2012

2012-03-24T22:17:27Z

On Thursday March 22, 2012 ScotchBlog.ca hosted a whisky tasting featuring Tullibardine Distillery at Quinn's Steakhouse & Irish Bar.

Guests were treated to six expressions of Tullibardine, including a 1964 cask strength, along with food pairings and a fascinating miscellany of anecdotes, digressions, and factual tidbits about the distillery from Tullibardine's International Sales Manager, James Robertson.

Gordon & MacPhail: Independent Masters of Innovation

2012-03-16T16:00:00Z

In the world of independent bottlers there are many names, but few are more recognizable or reliable than Gordon & MacPhail. Founded in 1895 in Elgin, Scotland as a combination grocer, wine, and spirit merchant, the company has managed to remain family owned to this day while amassing a truly astonishing collection of rare casks, unique whiskies, and its own distillery.

What makes Gordon & MacPhail so special? I chatted with Michael Urquhart, Joint Managing Director, to find out.

]]> First off, let's have a look at the role of the independent bottler in the whisky world and what they provide to the market as a whole. The immediate answer is access to closed distilleries that are no longer producing, such as Rosebank. In fact, if it were not for independent bottlers, many of the names like Littlemill, Glen Albyn, St. Magdalene, and the like would be consigned to memories and archives. Thankfully though, there are a few casks still out there and from time to time we whisky lovers have the chance to procure one of these long lost whiskies as a result of the efforts of such companies.

Then there are the releases of existing distilleries that happen to see most of their stock go into blends, such as Ben Nevis or Clynelish, that independent bottlers make available with perhaps a different ageing period or cask finish. As Michael puts it "If you take a whisky from a particular distillery as a phrase, and their bottling is saying that phrase in English, we're

just saying that phrase in another language. It's just another interpretation." Often these interpretations provide an amazing whisky that would otherwise have never seen the light of day, lost to the world, its charm used sparingly to develop a blend.

So how does the independent bottler obtain their whisky? Naturally they purchase it from the distillery, many buying casks in the younger years and then ageing them to the point that they feel comfortable releasing it. This is where the separation begins for the team from Elgin.

Likely the most defining characteristic of Gordon & MacPhail's operations is the fact that they begin before others, starting with the new make spirit itself. As a rule, they are almost always looking to buy at new make and cask it themselves. From there it becomes a delicate balancing act that requires years of patience and check-ups to find out how successful they have been. Michael explains: "We're looking to make sure that we balance the type of the cask with the style of the whisky ... with when we think we're going to go and bottle it. Then using the appropriate type of cask to get the right maturation over that period of time, so that the style of the whisky can compliment the style of the cask and you don't get one overpowering the other." To put it another way, they are only one step removed from the distilling process. Or at least they were.

In 1993 Gordon & MacPhail purchased a decommissioned and dilapidated distillery in Forres named Benromach, spending the next five years renovating and refurbishing it until 1998 when production began again. The impetus behind the purchase being the fulfillment of a dream that was two generations old: owning a small Speyside distillery close to Elgin. The goal with the restart was to go back to a style of Speyside whiskies not seen since the late 1960's and early 1970's, producing a spirit that was light and fruity, yet still retaining a light smoky note. How could they be certain that this was the style they wanted? Well, when a company has over 18,000 casks of various whiskies from multiple distilleries, going back over the decades, comparison of styles becomes much more academic.

Think about that for a moment: 18,000 casks.

Some are sherry, others ex-bourbon, some port, and on and on and on. Since the company is also a successful wine merchant, they have consistent access to top quality casks. Of course they go beyond simply buying sherry casks; that would be too simple. Instead they commission a small bodega in Jerez, Spain to build and season their casks for three to four years. But even this is done with a twist. "We tend to use American oak because it's got a tighter grain so that you're not going to get so much of the tannins coming through that you do with European oak" states Michael, and as a result of their cask policies "we do some wood finishes and some full maturations" as well. All the while performing consistent check-ups to ensure that the cask is not beginning to overpower the whisky. After all, the goal is to compliment what the distillery itself bottles rather than alter the true character of it.

To ensure that these carefully selected casks and their precious cargo are perfectly protected, meticulous warehouse management is critical. As such, maturation is carried out both at the distiller's warehouse and then in Elgin, where Mr. Urquhart proudly states that the cool, dry confines help limit the Angels' Share to significantly less than accepted norm of 2% per year. For example, in the case of their 70 (yes, seventy) year old bottling of Glenlivet released last year, the whisky spent its first 40 years at Glenlivet prior to spending the last 30 in Elgin, ultimately coming out of the cask at 45% ABV. This combination warehousing again reiterating a core company value: "We're not looking to go & compete head-on with the distiller. What we're looking to do is compliment what they're doing."

This goal is even carried out to the point that some distilleries that would never see an original bottling make it to market, are afforded the opportunity to do so with the original distillery label. This is the case with Mortlach, Glen Grant,

and Strathisla to name a few. But distillery labelled bottlings are just one of the ranges offered by this pioneering company. Their Connoisseur's Choice range alone features 45 whiskies, some of which will never be seen again, such as their 1994 Caperdonich which is available at the LCBO now. Meanwhile, the Cask Strength line provides whisky lovers with the opportunity to get their hands on the raw goods. Then there is their Rare Vintage line that has afforded people chance to get their hands on bottles such as a 1963 Glen Grant, and several others of such repute. But in the interest of brevity, I recommend setting aside 20 minutes and heading to their site directly for the complete listing of ranges and bottlings.

So what more is there to say really?

From start to finish, through a meticulous approach to methodology, amazing attention to detail, and a clear cut commitment to quality, Gordon & MacPhail is a truly critical component of the Scotch whisky world. Under the steady hand of the Urquhart family the company has attained an unassailable position as an industry leader, innovator, and purveyor of truly exceptional whiskies. Yet, at the end of the day, great whisky is about more than just the name on the bottle. As Michael puts it "It's about enjoyment. It's about adventure. The experience of that is a key thing." Indeed, it is everything.

Get Vertical with Tullibardine

2012-03-15T16:00:00Z

On Thursday, March 22nd (yes, that is next Thursday) at 7pm we are inviting people to join us somewhere in Toronto as we welcome James Robertson from Tullibardine to guide 40 of us through a tasting of 6 whiskies from a distillery that is a personal favourite of mine.

The evening will feature various vintages and cask finishes from Tullibardine as well as food pairings designed to accentuate the flavours of the whiskies, and as always there is a nominal fee required for entry to offset some of the cost of putting the whole thing together.

How much? $20.

Yes. You read that correctly. The whole event will only cost twenty dollars per person.

Now, as is often the case with such a unique and special event, we have to cap the number of attendees. This time the cap is due to the available quantity of a few of the whiskies. Therefore it is a very hard cap for which there can be no exceptions.

With that in mind we'll be accepting requests from those who email us on a first-come, first-served basis. After all the seats are filled, we will then be keeping a waiting list. For everyone who fits into the first 40, you will receive an email next week, from me personally, with the exact location of the tasting. For those who need to hang tight on the waiting list, I will also email you so that you can be on guard should a last minute spot open up.

So how do you confirm your desire to attend? Well, if you look to your right, you will see how to "Contact Us". So please do send an email, otherwise it makes it very difficult for me to email you back with the details.

On behalf of everyone at ScotchBlog.ca, we are truly looking forward to sharing this special evening with you.

Cardhu 25 Year Old Rare Malts Selection

2012-03-09T13:46:16Z

Every so often through a unique combination of serendipity, a series of events linked over long periods of time, and just blind luck, life yields something so truly special that the line between reality and dreams becomes blurred briefly. This past Sunday I was fortunate enough to experience one such moment while simultaneously enjoying a true honour.

On the occasion of one Mark Pearlman's birthday, I was fortunate enough to attend and guide a select few of his family and friends through a truly momentous tasting featuring lost distilleries, rare bottles, and truly great company. Placed in a line up featuring a 21 year old Littlemill, a 24 year old Glen Albyn, great whiskies from Macallan, and even an Ardbeg 17 year old expression, it was the 25 year old Cardhu that vaulted past every one of them, and many more, exploding into the list of the greatest whiskies I have ever had the luxury of enjoying.

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Nose: Rolling out of the glass in layers, light lemon and vanilla lead with just a whisp of roasted marshmallow and dark cocoa. Following closely behind are surprising grassy notes attached to heather honeyed sweetness. Then comes something lost in many of today's Speysides: the light, slightly salty, and sublimely seductive smoke of Speyside peat and a thin veil of oakiness. I could have nosed this all day!

Palate: Rich and explosive, this unchillfiltered liquid gold delivers an unparalleled malty body that coats every bit of the mouth with citrus fruit, salted butter, and hints of apple. As all of this unwinds, the oaky elements arise without becoming woody, twisting and turning before ever so slowly yielding a faintly peppered peatiness the likes of which I have never experienced before. The addition of a splash of water is most certainly required to prevent the anesthetic effects of 60.5% whisky. Yet it does nothing to diminish the flavours, instead expanding them in the same way an opera house expands the sound of the performance. Remarkable.

Finish: As the long road of the palate ends, the marathon of the finish begins. The salt and citrus linger, but are the first to go. In the next instant giving way to a fleeting moment of grassy elements reminiscent of cut hay, prior to yielding memories of autumnal leaves and distant smoke. The light oakiness is the last to depart, taking its leave with a last gasp of sweet malt closing the door behind it.

Overall: This is a dream whisky in no uncertain terms. It left me thinking about it the next day, almost wondering if I'd actually experienced it. It is unequivocally on par with the greatest whiskies I have had, and ever will have. Flawlessly balanced throughout, I enjoyed it for the better part of an hour simultaneously celebrating and lamenting every sip, knowing that eventually it would leave nothing more than a memory that I will chase from now on. Sublime and surreal from start to finish I can only hope that I have the good fortune to cross paths with it again.

So once more I must extend my thanks to Mark, as everyone in attendance received a present on his birthday. Furthermore, I extend my gratitude to every last person in the room that I was able to experience this whisky with, because great whisky is more than just liquid in a glass. It is a moment that begs to be experienced with others so that all may remember something special about it and the time that was shared.

Glenmorangie Finealta

2012-03-07T18:20:39Z

While we haven't had much of a winter here in Toronto this year, Sunday gave us a cold, brisk wind and proper wintery temperatures. What better day to drink a warming dram that was built on Glenmorangie's recreation of its turn-of-century base whisky?

Finealta translates from Gaelic to mean elegant and this Private Edition rises to that challenge. There is no question that this is a Glenmorangie dram and it proves to meet, if not exceed, The Original.

Nose: Floral, honeyed clover with peach and citrus give way to a strong orange creamsicle with hints of almond and a wisp of smoke giving a warm welcome.

]]> Palate: Thick, but not viscous, with a sweet maltiness. The sweet orange flavour flows throughout with a gentle smoke and hints of pepper and heat. This dram is smooth and very approachable making it one that is easy to drink.

Finish: The finish here is full of surprises. The dominating characteristic of mandarin oranges gives way to light cherry notes fading into dark chocolate and sherry at the end. Pleasantly, the finish lasts longer than expected increasing the enjoyment from the glass.

Overall: Building on the Original Glenmorangie, the Finealta adds layers of complexity and maturity to the brand. If you can get your hands on a bottle there is no doubt in my mind that you will be satisfied.

Isle of Jura 21 - 200th Anniversary

2012-03-05T14:47:00Z

This bottle was hand-delivered from England into our eager hands, long before the product was available at the LCBO. Luckily stocks are still quite good on this relative rarity, currently at well over 100 bottles in Toronto area stores. As the title infers, this edition of the 21 year old commemorates the 200th anniversary of the Jura distillery. The spirit is a deep amber colour that may be drawn from its vintage 1963 Oloroso sherry cask finish. The bottle is elegantly packaged and comes with an invitation to a special tasting at the Isle of Jura Distillery from Distillery Manager, Willie Cochrane.

Nose: Dark toffee and sherry muting a subtle dose of peat. Beyond the initial impression, there are notes of orange zest and worn leather.

]]> Palate: Enters sweet with a licorice note followed by sour citrus playing off of a deep wood spiciness.

Finish: Long with black pepper, wood must and a hint of melon.

Overall: A fun twist for us Jura fans, but I must admit, it has me longing for their Superstition or Prophecy. At 44%, I'm left wondering what this dram would have been like at 46%+ and unchilfiltered. The price at the LCBO is rather prohibitive at $147.95, but it is somewhat rare as well as 21 years old, after all.

Springbank CV

2012-02-29T23:19:36Z

The Springbank distillery actually produces three different brands of single malt at the one location - Springbank, Longrow and Hazelburn. In addition to being one of the few operating distilleries located in Campbeltown, they also are one of the only distilleries that performs all malting, distilling, aging, and bottling on-site. Given this, it's no surprise that Springbank was shortlisted in Whisky Magazine's distillers of the year back in 2010. The Springbank CV expression combines various aged Springbank malts aged in a mixture of casks including ones that formerly held bourbon, sherry and port.

Nose: Cedar/piney with menthol giving way to a mild sweetness. There are bready undertones complimented by sour fruit.

]]> Palate: She's an oily one all right. Initially hot on the tongue, there is a brief citrus followed by fresh cut grass and clover which is quickly overpowered by the heat on this dram. Although appealing, the flavours present are closed and underdeveloped. A small burst of peat smoke will appeal to those looking for such a fix.

Finish: Very short and dry. There is a bit of rubber combined with cocoa and the result is not exceedingly pleasant.

Overall: We've been generally smitten with the Springbank 10 and 15, but this fairly mundane expression doesn't make our 'must buy' list. For an extra five dollars, we'd recommend you spring for the Springbank 10 with much more intrigue to offer than the CV.